Seville was my one ‘must see’ city when planning our Portugal and Spain trip. Early in both Magellan’s Navigator and The King’s Galley are several scenes in Seville. I spent hours studying Renaissance maps of the city before drafting these. Much has changed in the city since then, but importantly the Cathedral and Royal Alcázar still remain and the Guadalquivir River still bisects Triana and Seville while making its way to the sea.
Today a grassy lawn and busy street border the east side of the Guadalquivir, but I found it easy to imagine Magellan’s five ships being outfitted along the shore with warehouses and work sheds where there is now grass and pavement. Workers would have bustled about, the clanging of the blacksmiths at work filled the air, while the smell of hot tar assaulted the nose.
The Nao Victoria Museum along the river was of particular interest to me. The museum is small, but its exhibits do a superb job of illustrating the circumnavigation of the globe from the preparation of Magellan’s fleet through to the return of the Nao Victoria to Seville. Tied up at the river’s edge is a static display of the Victoria. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to go aboard as high winds the previous day caused parks and other outside exhibits throughout the city to be closed. There is also a seaworthy Victoria, which on the day we were in Seville was enroute to Sardinia.
Spain’s Casa de Contratación, House of Trade, was based in Seville from its founding by Queen Isabella in 1503 until in moved in 1717. The Casa oversaw ALL activities of Spain’s colonies throughout the world. No ship sailed without its approval. It assessed all taxes on imports to Spain. In Magellan’s time literally nothing happened in the colonies or upon the sea without the Casa’s approval. The Spanish were voluminous documenters of everything. The records of the Casa are in the Archive of the Indies in Seville which was near our hotel. These were a key source for my friend Tim Joyner’s book, Magellan.
Sevilla Cathedral dominates the old part of Seville. It is huge. Only St. Peters at the Vatican and St. Paul’s in London are larger. It’s so large that its disorientating. If you visit get a good guide or audio. Don’t miss the half-ton silver monstrance carried on the select holy days, Columbus’s tomb, or the high altar. These are only the highlights of a host of chapels, paintings, and altarpieces.
Another can’t miss building is the Royal Alcazar, the former Moorish palace that has been a Spanish Royal palace since 1248. Well, actually, we did miss seeing it. There is only so much a person can do in a day. I’ll see it next time in Seville.
The Barrio Santa Cruz directly east of the cathedral is a survivor from the Renaissance. It’s twisted, narrow alleys give an excellent feel for how in Magellan’s time the entire city must have looked and felt, although I suspect it smells much better now than when the streets weren’t as clean. I would visit Seville again to see the Alcazar and visit the Nao Victoria. However, beware, as it was overrun with tourists like ourselves even in October. I don’t think I could stand it during the height of tourist season. People must then be shoulder-to-shoulder with temperatures flirting with a hundred degrees.
kennethdschultz 